Hiking in Azerbaijan

Azerbaijan holds the eastern end of the Greater Caucasus: eight summits above 4,000 m, shepherd plateaus at 2,300 m that have been walked for a thousand years, and — five hours south — a relict subtropical rainforest that survived the ice ages. Almost all of it is within a day's drive of Baku, and almost none of it is waymarked. This guide covers where to walk, when, what it costs, and what you need to arrange before you go.