Tent, sleeping bag, boots: what to do when you get home
The coating peeling off an expensive tent in its second year, a sleeping bag that "doesn't keep me warm any more", the smell coming out of your boots — almost all of it is created not in the field but at home, in the few hours after you get back.
As soon as you return: rule one
Never store anything damp in a stuff sack. Two days is enough for mould to start, for the smell to become permanent and for the waterproof coating to begin breaking down.
If you arrive late, at the very least empty the pack and spread everything out. Detailed cleaning can wait until tomorrow; ventilation cannot wait past tonight.
Tent
- Shake out dust and sand; clean the zip track in particular — sand is the biggest killer of zips.
- Dry it fully pitched, in the shade. Direct sun is the tent's worst enemy: UV destroys the fabric's fibres and its waterproof layer. A few hours of harsh sun equals a season of use.
- Wipe stains with a soft sponge and plain water. Ordinary detergent, washing machines and fabric softener all damage the coating.
- Pack it away only when completely dry. Do not fold along the same lines every time — vary the folds so cracks do not form in one place.
- Storage: cool, dry, dark. Better in a loose cloth bag than compressed in a stuff sack for months.
Sleeping bag
What kills a bag is being stored compressed. Down or synthetic fill left squashed for months loses its loft, and loft is the warmth.
- Compression sack for the trip, a large breathable bag or a hanger for the house.
- Use a simple liner inside — it extends the time between washes by years.
- If it does need washing: a dedicated detergent, the gentlest cycle, then tumble dry on low with tennis balls. If the down has clumped, the bag is cold.
Boots
- Wash mud off while it is still wet; brushing dried mud scratches the leather.
- Take the insoles out and dry them separately. The source of the smell is almost always the insole.
- Radiators, stoves and car heaters are all forbidden. High heat ruins glue and leather, and the sole separates. Dry at room temperature, stuffed with paper.
- Leather models: wax or conditioner once or twice a season. Membrane models: a water-repellent (DWR) spray.
Small things
- Hydration bladder: storing it empty in the freezer solves the mould problem entirely.
- Gas canisters: keep partly used ones separately and write how much is left on them.
- Power banks and headlamps: for long storage, at roughly 50% charge.
- First aid kit: check expiry dates once each season.
If you have not bought gear yet, spending the first season on rentals is the smarter approach — see Your first camp: what you need and what is smarter to rent.
Ready to experience it yourself? See the upcoming departures.
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